The cotton-trading capital of the Delta,
MEMPHIS
, perched above the Mississippi two hundred miles west of Nashville and three hundred south of St Louis, is one of the great destinations of the South. Visitors come from all over the world to celebrate the city that virtually invented blues, soul and rock 'n' roll, as well as to chow down in the unrivaled barbecue capital of the nation. A visit to Memphis, the home of the Sun and Stax record labels, with its frequent festivals and vigorous nightlife, feels like an invitation to share in a genuine and enduring local culture.
Culturally and geographically, Memphis has more in common with the deltalands of Mississippi and Arkansas than with the rest of Tennessee. Founded in 1819 and named for Egypt's ancient Nile capital, its fortunes rose and fell with
cotton
. The Confederate defeat that ended the war briefly plunged it into economic chaos, and severe yellow fever epidemics didn't help, but thanks to its potential for river and rail transportation Memphis soon bounced back. The nation's second largest inland port became a major stopping-off point for
migrants
escaping the poverty of the Delta, and many stayed, significantly shaping the city's identity.
For a couple of decades after the 1968
assassination
of Dr Martin Luther King Jr, Memphis tottered on the brink of decline. In the past decade, however, the city has regenerated itself yet again, its new self-confidence typified by the extraordinary 321ft stainless steel
Pyramid
that now dominates the riverfront skyline. The famous
blues
corridor of
Beale Street
is booming once more, perhaps a little ersatz but always entertaining, while Elvis Presley's
Graceland
a refreshing change from the usual "gracious southern home" provides an intimate and exuberant glimpse of Memphis's most famous son.
The City
Downtown
Memphis has in the last few years started to come back to life, at the cost of losing some of its old cotton-era buildings. The central streets parallel to the river are steadily acquiring new hotels, restaurants and stores.
Beale...
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Downtown Memphis has in the last few years started to come back to life, at the cost of losing some of its old cotton-era buildings. The central streets parallel to the river are steadily acquiring new hotels, restaurants and stores. Beale Street on downtown's southern fringes is the liveliest area to stroll around, with Sun Studio nearby and the Civil Rights Museum just south. The huge Mud Island on the river itself merits half a day, while Graceland , ten miles out, should on no account be missed.